Discipline in General

The first and most important thing to remember is that she's a cat, not a very short, 4-legged person. It also helps to realize that she will likely think of you as a very large cat, admittedly with some peculiar non-cat foibles (such as an appalling lack of talent at mice-catching). Try to look at things from her viewpoint--she really does have a reason for what she's doing.

Second, never, ever hit your cat. I have found that an attempt to be reasonable, as odd as that may sound, works best. (Example: Stanley was in the habit of taking other cat's tidbits out from under their nose; he'd been doing it for years. As I was sitting on the kitchen floor one day, giving out handouts, I observed him doing this - I pushed my hand up into his face, pushing him back slightly, and said, "Stanley, we DON'T steal from each other." He hasn't done it since; in fact, he looks up at me to ask permission to eat another cat's leftovers when they walk away.)

Using the same reprimand word works best - though I tend to talk in full sentences to my cats (they are, after all, much more intelligent than anybody else's cats), most people find that simply saying "NO!" in a firm, no-nonsense voice for all infractions works well. If he won't listen, keep a squirt bottle of plain water handy (be sure to keep the bottle away from your children, so they don't use it as a toy against your cat). Or toss your keys toward him - not at him - so the noise will startle him. At least one of my cats can't tell where a whistle comes from, and she looks over her shoulder somewhat nervously when she hears one - so if she's being "bad," I whistle and she almost always stops what she is doing.


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Getting Your Cat to Come to You

Unlike dogs and children, cats are unlikely to come to you just because you want them to obey. However, a cat who knows he will be warmly petted, brushed, will receive a treat, or an extended period of lap-napping, is more likely to get up, stretch, look casually around, and then wander over to you (displaying, for all intents and purposes, the attitude that it was his idea in the first place). No animal will come to you willingly if you are raising your voice or if they think they are going to be punished.

Cats, by the way, respond best to names that end in an "ee" sound. You will most likely get a better response if you shorten Prince Zadrach of Dominquez' name to Zaddy, for example. Too, they seem to respond better to a higher-pitched tone of voice.


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Your Cat and Plants

To prevent your cat from digging in the dirt around your houseplants, go to your local craft store and buy a few pieces of the plastic needlepoint mesh. Cut it to fit the pot, with a slit and an opening for the plant. Place it on top of the dirt. Or, dampen a cotton ball with oil of clove, then bury the cotton ball just below the surface.

To stop him from chewing on houseplants, mist the leaves with water and sprinkle a small amount of cayenne pepper on the leaves. Or you can buy Bitter Apple from your local pet store and spray it on the leaves. Here is a list of plants that are toxic to your cat.


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Chewing on Electrical Cords

Coating the cord with a pasty mixture of cayenne pepper, hot pepper sauce, nail-biting nail polish, or orange/lemon peel seems to work in most cases. A better solution might be to put the cords into a cardboard tube, which has the added advantage of keeping them all in one organized bundle. You can purchase mailing tubes, or simply save the cardboard tubes from your wrapping paper. If it's ugly, cover with Contac paper.



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Your Cat and the Curtains

Cats like to climb. You may end up doing both of you a favor if you simply put vertical blinds (not horizontal blinds) at the window, since the cat can then push them aside to get to the window sill. Alternatively, you could try installing tension rods that will fall down (frightening, not hurting) the cat when they climb. I have one cat who is extremely persistent at climbing the aluminum screening - I've not had much luck at not getting her to begin the ascent, but she's been lifted off, told NO!, and dropped to the floor enough times that I can now say, "LIBBY! GET OFF!" and she will back down almost immediately.

For safety sake, make sure that the pull-cord is not a loop; cut it so there are two strings so neither your cat nor your child will inadvertently get it caught around their neck.


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The Garbage Can

If the smells and tidbits in the garbage can continually peak your cat's interest, get one with a lid, or keep it under the sink.


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Unrolling the Toilet Paper or Shredding Kleenex

Personally, I am always amused when a cat goes in and rolls all the paper off the toilet roll. However, most people are not as tolerant (or easily amused) as I am - the solution I've suggested to others is to simply install the toilet roll so the edge of the paper doesn't roll over the top toward the front. When your cat discovers he can no longer unroll the paper, he'll probably stop trying and you can install subsequent rolls so it rolls off to the front.

If your kitty persists in pulling out pawfuls of tissues, turn the box upside down.



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The Carpet

A few owners have a problem with their cat shredding the carpet, even with a convenient scratching post. First, look at the scratching post from a cat's viewpoint: it's covered with carpet .... this stuff on the floor has the same feel. Hmmm.... Since it's less costly to replace the scratching post than the carpeting, try getting a post that is covered with sisal rope, corrugated cardboard, or carpet turned wrong-way out. Then train your cat to use it. If the cat is always scratching at a particular spot in the carpeting, the reason might be due to a strong smell in that one spot - go to the vet and get an enzymatic cleaner and clean it thoroughly.


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Dirty Chins

You may notice that your cat has a dirty chin - little black spots that look like acne. It IS acne. And it can be quite painful, so you should take steps to get it cured as soon as possible. Though you might want to check with your vet, who can provide you with some medicine, you might want to try this first: Clean the area with hydrogen peroxide (pour some on a clean white washcloth, and sponge off the chin). You'll probably need to do this twice a day for a week or so.

Next, take a look at the food dishes: how often do you clean them? Are they plastic? Are they very deep? Cat food dishes should be cleaned on a daily basis, particularly if you are feeding canned food. Plastic dishes may aggravate the acne, and deep food bowls definitely will. (Ours eat out of glass custard dishes.)

Also see Sloppy Eaters below.


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Biting

Does your cat bite when he plays? Respond as a cat: hiss at him. Or scream in painful agony; he'll stop (though he might not play with you for a long while). I had a cat that accidentally drew blood while we were playing - I put my arm up to his nose and rubbed the droplets of blood against him, and he never bit again.


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The Counters and Table

In our house, cats are allowed to get on the kitchen counter because that's the only way they can reach "their" two-shelf, rug-covered greenhouse window. They are not allowed on the kitchen table. It took 2 days to untrain Galahad and Stanley (for the previous 10 years, in a different household, they had been allowed on the kitchen table, even during meals). I simply picked them up, said "NO! You can't be on the table" and dropped them gently but firmly onto the floor. Some people resort to more intense retraining - spraying the cat with a water bottle, tossing it out of the room, etc., but use those as a last resort.

Stacking pots and pans near the edge of the counter, so they clatter and fall when the cat jumps up, will likely prevent him from jumping up in the future. You can also tape strips of velcro - the looped side on your counter temporarily; landing on the stiff loops may be uncomfortable enough to get your message across.

By the way, it took 2 days to convince Su-Su that she COULD now get up on the counter, after I installed the greenhouse window. I had to pick her up off the floor, put her on the counter, and gently nudge her toward it.


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Scratching Furniture/Declawing

First, please note that declawing your cat so he won't scratch your furniture is cruel and inhumane. It is the equivalent of cutting off your finger up to the first knuckle. There can be serious physical and psychological effects.

Instead, you should train your cat to use a scratching post. Other alternatives include a quick, painless trimming of his claws (which you can do at home using special clippers) or covering the claws with soft sheaths (which you can purchase relatively inexpensively).

Scratching is one of your cat's most ingrained instincts. Keep a scratching post near where the cat usually sleeps or, if he has already picked out a corner of your sofa, keep it next to that chosen spot. You may need to train your cat to use his scratching post. Do not pick him up and put his paws on the scratching post (that will only make him want to avoid it). Make the scratching post appealing to him: rub catnip on it or mist it with catnip spray; drape a heavy string (a long leather shoelace works great) over it and wiggle it to catch his interest; put treats on the very top.

Important: Invest in a scratching post that is 24" or 30" tall, with a sturdy base - your cat may be using the arm of the sofa because he can stretch higher than his scratching post will allow. Most of the ones you will find at the store are only 18" high so you may need to visit a pet supply store.


I recently found THE best scratching post for our cats! It's made out of rough sisal (NOT the rope, a weave!). It's tall (29 inches), doesn't fall over, doesn't wobble, and doesn't slide across the floor. And, of course, the best part: all the cats love it. It's called the TopCat Sisal Scratching Post.

A few cats don't like scratching on a vertical post, but will scratch willingly on a flat scratching pad. If your cat prefers a flat surface, you can either buy one of the cardboard scratching boxes (typically available from mail order or pet stores), or buy a scrap of plywood and a carpet remnant, large enough to fold around onto the back of the plywood. Cut the corners on an angle, fold the carpet remnant over the wood, and tack the carpet on using carpet tacks or heavy-duty staples.

Sometimes changing to a scratching post that is covered with sisal rope or a different texture will kindle his interest in the post, as well.

An additional idea, one that worked well when there were more vacant rooms in the house, is to follow the instructions above for a flat-surface scratching pad, then mount it on the wall at a convenient height for the cat, in a hallway or in the laundry room.

Other solutions: If he's scratching wood furniture, rub strong-smelling furniture polish into it. For sofa and chair sides, cover the edges of the sofa with heavy plastic (available at your local fabric store - typically used to cover footstools or protect tablecloths - you can buy twist-pins while you're there to hold the place neatly in place) or aluminum foil (use velcro or double-stick tape to hold in place). Or spray a cloth thoroughly with one of the sprays formulated for keeping a cat off the furniture, and pin it to the sofa, chair, or your speakers (don't spray directly onto the furniture). Or, put strips of self-adhesive velcro (loop side out) on the favored scratching spots. If all else fails, everytime you see him actively clawing the furniture, spray him lightly from a bottle of water (do this only when he is actually scratching, not when he is approaching or leaving the furniture).

Safety tip: If you have a "cat tree" (typically covered with carpeting for easily climbing up and jumping off of) for your cat, please anchor it securely to the wall or floor so there will be no chance of it falling on your kitty and injuring him.



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The Litter Box

Cats prefer to use a litter box, and in 9-7/8 cases out of 10, will do so consistently. If your cat has been using the litter box then suddenly starts going elsewhere, it is most likely due to a health problem (get thee to the vet immediately), emotional stress (have you added a new cat, dog, or person to the household?), or because something has changed in the litterbox environment itself (has the cat outgrown the litterbox, did you change to a perfumed filler or a really smelly cleaner, are there lots of people walking by the litterbox so the cat has no privacy? And just how long has it been since you changed the litter, anyway?). If your cat has developed a preference to a particular corner, there may be an odor already there - clean it thoroughly with an enzymatic cleaner (available from your vet; the enzymes will remove both the smell and, usually, any stain).

By the way, we don't use clumpable litter filler. While it is convenient, I feel that since it hardens into a mass when wet, it might do the same thing in a cat's stomach when they lick it off their paws.


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Adding a New Cat

The solution I have found to work best is to give the new cat, especially if he is an adult, his own room for a couple of days, one that isn't another cat's favored room, of course. (The younger your cats are, the less time will be needed by the way; older cats, like people, become very set in their ways and don't welcome change.) Keep the door closed, and visit the newcomer frequently, talking with him and petting him. Remember he'll need a litter box; preferably, feed him in the room for at least the first day as well. Then, open the door for longer and longer periods, so he can come out and explore.

When you see one of your existing cats go into the room, follow him inside - then sit on the floor, one cat on each side, and pet and talk to each at the same time. The idea is to demonstrate to both of them that they are each mutually loved and appreciated. It is very important in a multi-cat household that you give each cat the same amount of affection - they will have enough to deal with amongst themselves when establishing who's top-cat, without you compounding the situation by showing favoritism.


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Petting and Stuff

Most cats like to be stroked on their forehead, between the ears (Libby will approach me, throwing back her head to make sure I do the forehead-thing). They also like to be skritched under the chin and along the throat. If they trust you a lot, they'll roll over onto their back for stomach-skritching. Always pet a cat in the direction of its fur, and be aware that the spot just above the tail is sensitive - some cats adore being scratched there, others hate it. If your cat suddently nips you while you are petting it, it may be because he's "overdosed" on the pleasurable sensations: some cats can tolerate only a few minutes of being petted, while others will happily doze in your lap, being stroked for hours.

Whenever I walk through a room in the house, I pet any cat walking by or lying within arm's reach - they seem to enjoy the acknowledgement of their presence.

If your cat isn't a cuddle kitty and tries to jump out of your arms, don't force him to stay. (Help him down gently, don't let him jump out of your arms.) You can build up his "tolerance" to being held by picking him up frequently for a quick cuddle, and can extend it usually by a few seconds or minutes each time. Note, too, that your cat is more likely to want to snuggle when you want him to if you pay attention to him and play with him at other times.

Ever wonder why your cat becomes a real pest when you start talking on the phone? A popular viewpoint is that the cat doesn't see the person you are talking to, so he assumes you are talking to him.

Never pick up a cat by the scruff of its neck, even if it's a kitten. Pick him up with one hand under his chest, and with the other, scoop up his back feet. I hold my cats with two hands - one under their back feet, with the front paws resting over my other arm or shoulder.



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Moving with Your Cat

Your cat should be the last thing you "pack up," and if you're moving only across town, you should have the furniture in place at the new house before he arrives. If you're moving farther, his carrier should be roomy, certainly tall enough that he can stand up and turn around; it will help him very much if you put something in with him that has a familiar smell - the towel from his basket, for example. If he'll be in the car for several hours, a litterbox, food and water are essential - and yes, if he isn't allowed in your hotel room, the litterbox should be in the car where he can use it in privacy; there's no way you are going to get him on a leash and to do his "business" on command on a grassy parkway.

When he arrives at the new house, if you're still arranging furniture, or if the movers are coming and going, put him in a quiet, safe room out of traffic. Do check on him periodically (talking and petting him each time), and make sure he has the necessities (litterbox, food, water, and a comfy place to sleep).

Ensure that there is no way he can get outside, even if for some reason you have allowed him to be an outside cat - he may very well try to "go home" if a door is open to him. Even after you've settled in, make sure he is perfectly comfortable and happy with the house, which may take several days at least, before you open the door for him.

Some cats are perfectly comfortable with exploring a whole new house all at once; others are going to head for the room where you are or a hiding place like a closet, and will venture out very slowly. (The first night at this house, my cats at the time stayed within inches of me and didn't leave the bedroom till I got up the next morning; when Stanley and Galahad were shipped here, they left the bedroom about 15 minutes after their arrival; Buster spent 2 days hiding in the mattress and might still be there if I hadn't shut myself in with him and talked to him for 2 hours.) Generally speaking, once the furniture is in place so the smells are familiar, he'll adjust quite quickly; but this is a stressful time for him (as it is for you), so you'll want to be sure to pet him and talk to him frequently, to reinforce that this is a "good thing" and not some frightening punishment. You might even want to "tour" the house with him in your arms, so you can explain to him what's happening.

Note that if your cat is easily stressed, your veterinarian can provide you with a mild tranquilizer to help him cope with the move.


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Fluffy is Pregnant

A female kitten reaches sexual maturity (goes into "heat") between the ages of 6 and 10 months. How do you recognize her "heat period"? This is typical behavior: rolling around on the floor, almost in a frenzy; rubbing her backside against you or any other fellow creature; yowling at the door or window; arching her tail and standing with stiff back legs whenever she is touched. Most veterinarians recommend spaying before the cat goes into her first heat, at around 5 months, for the cat's future health and wellbeing. The heat period will typically last between 4 and 7 days - and will get longer and more frequent if she isn't bred. She will have several (by the second or third time, you will be thinking "MANY") heat periods over the course of a year.

With that said, if Fluffy "somehow" gets outside and finds a mate (you've probably got about 5 minutes to catch her before she does), she will be pregnant for about 9 weeks (between 62 and 65 days). A female can and will mate several times (with every willing male) during her heat period; kittens in the litter, therefore, can have different fathers.

You don't need to do anything special for a pregnant cat, other than keep her safe, comfortable, and out of stressful situations, until the last week or so - then she will need more food and will start looking for a place to build a "nest." You can provide her with an out-of-the-way spot in a closet or back room - but be aware that, especially if this is her first pregnancy, you may wake up to discover her giving birth in your bed.

If the cat appears to be in any distress during the birthing process, call a vet for assistance immediately. If there are no problems, the whole thing will usually be over within an hour or so. And get Fluffy fixed as soon as the kittens are weaned, please.


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Bathing Your Cat

Thanks to a reader for sending me this tip that she saw in a cat's magazine years ago: "Best way to bath a cat is find an old window screen, place it in the tub or sink, the cat will dig its claws into the screen and stay there the entire time of bathing. It works, I have done it."





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Sloppy Eaters

Most of my cats insist on taking the food out of their dishes and dropping it on the floor to eat. Those who don't do it intentionally seem to end up with the same result as well. I tried putting down placemats - that ended up being inconvenient. Then, I bought a vinyl tablecloth (with a bright, multi-color pattern), cut off about 18"-24" along the width, and put that on the floor under the dishes. I'm pleased to report that the floor is much cleaner now, the drops of food blend in with the colors of the tablecloth, and keeping the area clean is a lot easier: I just roll their tablecloth up and shake it out in the garbage can, then wash it off while I'm doing the dishes. I also bought a matching tablecloth for the "peoples' table."

Another "new" thing at our house: a cat drinking fountain! This handy little thing has been worth its weight in gold - the water is always fresh (it recycles through a charcoal filter), the bowl doesn't get hard water deposits, the cats enjoy drinking from it - and the sound of water rushing is very pleasant for all of us!

Since it was mentioned but the list was missing I figured i would post it.

Plants Poisonous to Cats

Almond (Pits of)
Aloe Vera
Alocasia
Amaryllis
Apple (seeds)
Apple Leaf Croton
Apricot (Pits of)
Arrowgrass
Asparagus Fern
Autumn Crocus
Avacado (fuit and pit)
Azalea

Baby's Breath
Baneberry
Bayonet
Beargrass
Beech
Belladonna
Bird of Paradise
Bittersweet
Black-eyed Susan
Black Locust
Bleeding Heart
Bloodroot
Bluebonnet
Box
Boxwood
Branching Ivy
Buckeyes
Buddist Pine
Burning Bush
Buttercup

Cactus, Candelabra
Caladium
Calla Lily
Castor Bean
Ceriman
Charming Dieffenbachia
Cherry (pits, seeds & wilting leaves)
Cherry, most wild varieties
Cherry, ground
Cherry, Laurel
Chinaberry
Chinese Evergreen
Christmas Rose
Chrysanthemum
Cineria
Clematis
Cordatum
Coriaria
Cornflower
Corn Plant
Cornstalk Plant
Croton
Corydalis
Crocus, Autumn
Crown of Thorns
Cuban Laurel
Cutleaf Philodendron
Cycads
Cyclamen

Daffodil
Daphne
Datura
Deadly Nightshade
Death Camas
Devil's Ivy
Delphinium
Decentrea
Dieffenbachia
Dracaena Palm
Dragon Tree
Dumb Cane

Easter Lily *
Eggplant
Elaine
Elderberry
Elephant Ear
Emerald Feather
English Ivy
Eucalyptus
Euonymus
Evergreen

Ferns
Fiddle-leaf fig
Florida Beauty
Flax
Four O'Clock
Foxglove
Fruit Salad Plant

Geranium
German Ivy
Giant Dumb Cane
Glacier IvyGolden Chain
Gold Dieffenbachia
Gold Dust Dracaena
Golden Glow
Golden Pothos
Gopher Purge

Hahn's Self-Branching Ivy
Heartland Philodendron
Hellebore
Hemlock, Poison
Hemlock, Water
Henbane
Holly
Honeysuckle
Horsebeans
Horsebrush
Horse Chestnuts
Hurricane Plant
Hyacinth
Hydrangea

Indian Rubber Plant
Indian Tobacco
Iris
Iris Ivy

Jack in the Pulpit
Janet Craig Dracaena
Japanese Show Lily *
Java Beans
Jessamine
Jerusalem Cherry
Jimson Weed
Jonquil
Jungle Trumpets

Kalanchoe

Lacy Tree Philodendron
Lantana
Larkspur
Laurel
Lily
Lily Spider
Lily of the Valley
Locoweed
Lupine

Madagascar Dragon Tree
Marble Queen
Marigold
Marijuana
Mescal Bean
Mexican Breadfruit
Miniature Croton
Mistletoe
Mock Orange
Monkshood
Moonseed
Morning Glory
Mother-in Law's Tongue
Morning Glory
Mountain Laurel
Mushrooms

Narcissus
Needlepoint Ivy
Nephytis
Nightshade

Oleander
Onion
Oriental Lily *

Peace Lily
Peach (pits and wilting leaves)
Pencil Cactus
Peony
Periwinkle
Philodendron
Pimpernel
Plumosa Fern
Poinciana
Poinsettia (low toxicity)
Poison Hemlock
Poison Ivy
Poison Oak
Pokeweed
Poppy
Potato
Pothos
Precatory Bean
Primrose
Privet, Common

Red Emerald
Red Princess
Red-Margined Dracaena
Rhododendron
Rhubarb
Ribbon Plant
Rosemary Pea
Rubber Plant

Saddle Leaf Philodendron
Sago Palm
Satin Pothos
Schefflera
Scotch Broom
Silver Pothos
Skunk Cabbage
Snowdrops
Snow on the Mountain
Spotted Dumb Cane
Staggerweed
Star of Bethlehem
String of Pearls
Striped Dracaena
Sweetheart Ivy
Sweetpea
Swiss Cheese plant

Tansy Mustard
Taro Vine
Tiger Lily *
Tobacco
Tomato Plant (green fruit, stem and leaves)
Tree Philodendron
Tropic Snow Dieffenbachia
Tulip
Tung Tree

Virginia Creeper

Water Hemlock
Weeping Fig
Wild Call
Wisteria

Yews --
e.g. Japanese Yew
English Yew
Western Yew
American Yew

Yes - how to remove cat pee smell!

You will need the following:

1 Gallon of Hydrogen Peroxide (you can purchase this size at a beauty supply store...if none in your area, you can buy quart sized bottles or even smaller and use a cleaned out gallon bottle (like a milk jug)

2 Tablespoons of baking soda

a few drops of any liquid dish soap (I used Dawn) (It is important that once you mix these ingredients together, it MUST be used IMMEDIATELY!)

Mix all ingredients together in a gallon jug, re-cap and shake well. USE IMMEDIATELY!

Saturate affected area very well. The area, once well saturated, should be very squishy when pressure is applied.

Let set for 24 hours.

Blot (do NOT apply excessive pressure, simply blot) excess wetness with papertowels (if you use rags, you'll need to discard them because of the chemical change, so I highly recommend paper toweling.

Let the area thourghly dry. DO NOT USE heat lamps, hair dryers or any thing to speed up the drying process. It is important that it air dry naturally, as the peroxide continues to work.

Once the area is completely dry, the odor is G O N E!!!