by: Mike Wiedmeyer, Mike's Motorsports, of Wisconsin

Like the rest of your bike, your battery needs maintenance too. A little work during the fall may save you some money - and aggravation - come spring.

Some technical info -
All batteries are made up of metal plates that are insulated from each other by a "matt" or special paper. Every other plate is attached together, alternating throughout the battery. One set is positively charged, the other negatively charged. These plates are immersed in a sulfuric acid solution, called electrolite. As a battery charges, or discharges, ions transfer from one set of plates to the other. A battery in good condition will allow efficient movement of these ions.

Batteries have enemies -
Batteries have two main enemies, heat and prolonged discharge. Heat problems will depend on what state you live in. But prolonged discharge during the long winter months is a problem.

All batteries will "self discharge" when not in use. That's the reason a bettery that just sits will go dead. The self discharge rate will vary from battery to battery due to the quality of the battery and the temperature while being stored. The higher the temperature, the faster a battery will discharge.

Discharging is a normal part of battery operation. But prolonged dischargin (like sitting over the winter) can have fatal effects on your battery. Two things happen to your battery while discharged. Fisrt, the metal plates begin to "sulfate" or build up a thick coating of sulphur crystals. As time goes by, this "sulfation" will grow and begin to short out the plates, reducing their efficiency.

The other chemical change that occurs when a batter discharges is that the acid in the battery changes to water, making it susceptible to freezing. When a batter is at full charge, it has a high acid concentration and can withstand temperatures to -75 degrees F without freezing.

Proper way to store a battery -
First, remove the battery and clean any corrosion off the terminals and any firt or grime on the battery in general. Wipe dry if needed.

Second, check the electrolyte level. If it's low, top off with DISTILLED water so the level is between the upper and lower lines. Too low a level will expose the metal plates to air and they will sulfide faster. (If you have a sealed type batery - the level is preset and the battery should NOT be unsealed . . . so you can skip this step.)

Once your batter is clean and the fluid level is set, you should put it in a place what is convenient for storage. A charged battery won't freeze, so it doesn't have to be heated. Also, it is okay to set it on a concrete floor - that's just a myth about it ruining a battery. If you keep your battery in your bike all winter, be sure to leave one terminal disconnected.

Finally, charge your batter once a month (every two weeks if the temperature is above 60 degrees F) with a low amperage charger (approximately one amp/hour) to keep it from getting discharged.

New chargers -
There are new types of battery charges on the market now, called "Smart Chargers". These new chargers have the ability to monitor the battery condition and charge it as needed. This allows you to put the charger on the battery and leave it connected all winter. Then you won't have to remember to connect and disconnect the charger every month.

By: Brian Kempke, Courtesy Glenn Curtiss Motorsports, Wisconsin

The key to having a great running bike in spring is to put it away properly in fall. If you are not sure about your abilities to do what's necessary, most motorcycle dealers can winterize your bike for you.

Change the motor oil before you put the bike away. This gets rid of any contaminats and moisture that may be in the oil. Lube any moving parts such as cables, clutch/brake levers and pedals with an appropriate lubricant.

Add a fuel stabilizer to the gas tank and take the bike out for a short ride. This will ensure that the engine is fully covered with the new oil and it will also mix the stabilizer throughout the entire fuel system.

If the bike is fuel-injected, just top-off the fuel tank and you are done with the fuel system. If it is carbureted, you will need to turn the fuel petcock to the off position. Continue running the bike until it runs the carburetor out of gas. Open the drain on the float bowl and drain out the last of the gas in the carburetor. Make sure you top-off the gas tank when you are done. This helps prevent moisture build-up in the tank, which can cause rust to form in the fuel tank.

Wash the bike before storing. I use a leaf blower after washing to get most of the water off and then towel dry the rest. For stubborn bugs that are dried on the windshield or paint, use a wet cloth and lay it over the area. Wait about 10 to 15 minutes and they should wipe right off.

Once the bike is clean, protect it. Apply a coat of wax on the painted areas - don't forget about the frame, it could use some wax too! Wipe down crome and aluminum parts with a good polish to kep these areas protected as well. Any leather or vinyl should be wiped down with a suitable cleaner/conditioner.

Inspect and adjust the chain or belt per spec if it is so equipped. Lube the chain with a good chain lube. If the bike is a shaft-drive, check the final drive level and top-off if necessary.

Save yourself some money and a big hassle in spring and get a battery tender. Remove the batter. Clean the terminals and check the fluid level, fill if necessary. Do not store the batter on concrete. Place it on a wood plank and hook up the battery tender for the winter.

Check tire pressures, adjust as necessary. Double-check the pressure in spring before the first fride. You can cover the end of the exhaust pipe(s) to prevent bugs and small animals from making them their home. Make sure the bike is fully cooled before covering them or you could trap moisture inside.

Find a suitable place to park the bike for the winter, preferably out of direct sunlight. Cover it with a breathable cover or use a soft cotton bed sheet to keep the dust off. Whrite down all the things you need to do or check in the spring and atttach this list to the handlebars. Now you're done getting your bike ready for winter.